If your sense of perspective has been thrown by the vast scale of Ospedale and the adjoining church of San Zanipolo, it’s very easy to miss a much smaller gem just around the corner.

The amount of baroque decoration on the façade of Santa Maria dei Derelitti (also known as the little hospital) is certainly impressive, and enough to give Ruskin apoplexy, but it’s a comparatively small building on a narrow thoroughfare.  You could well be past it before you realise, and even if it does catch your attention it feels more like a bank than a church.

So if you’re passing along Barbaria delle Tole in search of Casanova’s last home, slow down and look up.  Someone is watching you.



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