This view (shot from the vaporetto shortly after leaving the train station) replicates a number of paintings and early photographs of the entrance to the Cannaregio Canal (including a Canaletto in the Queen’s collection) which show the rebuilding and renovation of San Geremia from the 18th Century onwards, for the structure we see now is only about 150 years old.  Previous structures have suffered from Austrian bombardments on at least two separate occasions in the city’s history.  The campanile was more fortunate, and dating back to the 12th Century is one of the oldest in Venice.

It’s the Palazzo below the tower that has a more interesting tale to tell however; Palazzo Labia is unusual in not restricting its grandeur to the canalside façade, but having a formal rear and side too.  The original owners, the Labia family, were among the richest in Venice and are reported to have thrown gold dinnerware into the canal after a lavish party in a demonstration of their wealth.  (It’s also believed they had nets installed to retrieve it!)




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